Jul 9, 2011

Posted by in LiveJournal, Project Review | Comments Off on Lace-Overlay Skirt

Lace-Overlay Skirt

This was a commissioned item designed for and by my housemate Shelley.

I created a skirt block for it, but one problem with the block was that the arc over the hip line was too severe. I thought I had fixed it prior to starting on the actual skirt but when I had her try it on, I discovered that I had not fixed it properly. Alas, I had already put the side zipper in so that means I had to rip out that and then fix the problem. While it fits nicely, I can see the where the fix went in on the left side where the zipper is, making that line of the side seam not as smooth or as nicely draping as it had prior to the fix.

The skirt features 4 darts in front and 4 darts in back, with the kick pleats being in the side seams. This skirt is 3 layers of material — a lining, a foundation and a lace overlay. The foundation and the lace overlay were put together and treated as one item. Overall, I think this worked out very nicely.

Here I can really see the fix that went into the skirt over the hipline.

Given the number of layers in this skirt, which was quite challenging for me, but the invisible side zipper was really tough. I’m thrilled with the zipper itself, but the closure of the waistband isn’t as clean as I want it. I’ll have to practice on this one.

The other aspect I’m not very happy with is the kickpleat treatment. One side seam worked out very nicely, but the other has a bit of a pucker which wasn’t revealed until the skirt was finished.

I’m actually really happy with how I did the hemlines for the 3 layers of material. I left the lace and the foundation fabric unattached until after the hem was secured, then put the two together and hemmed the lace. Overall, it worked out very nicely. Much better than I had done in any of the class projects in which I did multiple layers. The last thing to go in were a total of 6 tailor’s tacks to keep the lining in place.

I’m wondering if it would be better on skirts with kickpleats to just shorten the lining so that it’s higher than the kickpleat. This is the only thing I can think of to ensure that the kickpleat is most attractive.

Overall, I think it came out nicely. Still some areas that I need to work on, but it fits the target client nicely and she’s pleased with it. Now I’ve got the blouse to make, probably an order of 2ce as complicated. *crosses fingers*

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